Her Olive Garden review was actually mixed. She said the “chicken Alfredo ($10.95) was warm and comforting on a cold day.” She also noted that the restaurant is “fashioned in Tuscan farmhouse style with a welcoming entryway.”

This one of those times when the Journal’s understated ahed prose
is just perfect.

Ryan Chittum is a former Wall Street Journal reporter, and deputy editor of The Audit, CJR's business section. If you see notable business journalism, give him a heads-up at rc2538@columbia.edu.