The day has finally come: sriracha chili sauce, that piquant Nectar of the Gods—aka Tuong Ot Sriracha (or, per its iconic label, “rooster sauce”—or, per culinary demigod Jean-Georges Vongerichten’s nickname, “the green-cap stuff”)—gets the quirky New York Times write-up it so richly deserves.

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Megan Garber is an assistant editor at the Nieman Journalism Lab at Harvard University. She was formerly a CJR staff writer.